A windmill on its own island, under the watchful eye of the Castle of Our Lady, in Leros. The castle sits where the ancient acropolis of Leros once stood.
We arrived back in Rhodes tonight to meet tomorrow our friends Per and Elly, who kindly held a package or two on our behalf.
This time, instead of going into the sterile marina, we anchored under the medieval walls built by the Knights Hospitaller of Saint John. These walls withstood the Egyptian attack of 1444 and the Turk attack of 1480, but in 1522, with only 7,000 Knights to defend against an onslaught of over 100,000 Turks, the city fell for four centuries, until the Italians took it back in 1912.
Peregrinus at anchor, in the center of this photo. The boat remained in Marina Piccola, which is no marina at all, but an anchorage, while we spent a few glorious days traversing the island up and down.
There was a financial price to pay, all worth it: the Admiral shopped for made-to-order Capri sandals, jewelry, and clothing. The island still has great local artisans.
The North side of Capri offers little in the way of anchorages, but there were a couple of megayachts anchored right in front of town, so we parked in between two of them, in 120 feet of water.
We then spent the afternoon in idleness, watching the world go by.
Communicates with you in many ways
Will not ever call you on your cellphone
It is useless to have it on
——— Taped on a wall inside a church, Ischia Ponte
Who needs a Rolls, when you can use an old Vespa tricyle?
In Ischia, the newlyweds go on a passegiatta in their car all over the main streets, and passersby wish them well. The whole wedding party follows them in other vehicles, in procession.
You who pass
And turn your gaze to this Temple
dedicated to the Holy Ghost
That it was built with little means
And was completed
With the hard work
Of the people of the sea
In the year of the Lord 1674
——— Plaque on a church in Ischia Ponte
From neat Sant'Angelo, to run-down Ischia Ponte, to upper-market Lacco Ameno, Ischia covers all bases, and offers good anchorages in all three. A cross-roads of history, it seems every Mediterranean culture has left a bit of its imprint on this remarkable island; not coincidentally, what is probably the oldest surviving writing in the Greek alphabet was found here.
A place to go back to, someday.
Octavian's best friend, general and all-around master builder, Agrippa, built the port at Pandateria, now called Ventotene. The port still stands, repaired, but unaltered from the way Agrippa built it.
Motoring into this harbor was the highlight our visit to the Pontine islands, and meandering around the city above, looking for mementos and gossip of his wife, known libertine, Ventotene exile, and daughter of the Emperor, Julia the Elder, was pure fun.
The Admiral loves the these FitFlop shoes she bought in Ponza, the old Roman island of Pontia. It is said the Greeks may have had a colony, long before the Etruscans and then the Romans arrived; it is said this is Circe's island, where Ulysses spent a year drinking and feasting. The owners of the shoe store said Caroline Grimaldi, of Monaco, is an annual visitor and customer of theirs.
Ponza is a low-key place we liked, a place where myth can be difficult to discern from reality. A place where one might very well spend a carefree year.
One of the Pontine islands, and one of the most isolated in the Mediterranean. It is said that only one person lives here year-round, but we saw no-one on land as we kayaked around.
The Romans called this island Palmaria, and that was its name when General Belisarius forced Pope Silverius to abdicate in November 537 and sent him here to die a month later.
Sailing around, Peregrinus comes across things.
On January 15, 2015, this boat passed us on starboard, as fast as if we were standing still, as we approached the Fort Lauderdale inlet, on the final leg of our trip from Nova Scotia. They were rushing for the starting line of the race to Key West, which started about 15 minutes after they reached the staging area, just as we turned into the channel. Talk about cutting it close. Rambler 88 went on to win 2nd place.
Forward a year-and-half later, September 3, 2016. As we departed the Costa Smeralda en route to Ponza, the whole fleet of the Maxi Yacht Rolex Cup 2016 was coming out of Porto Cervo for training just ahead of the regatta that ran 4 to 10 September. Rambler 88 again passed our starboard, only this time, in the opposite direction. They didn't do all that well this time; so Peregrinus is probably not their lucky charm.
Click the bar at the bottom for more photos, including one of Lionhearted.